Tuesday, March 24, 2015

American Girl Doll Tiered Dress Tutorial AG027

What a cute little Easter dress this would make for the 18” dolls eh?  Too cute!

I used Dollar Doll Clothes pattern for the bodice.  When I printed out the pattern, this is what I got.  I added ¼” on to the front fold and I cut away ¼” around the armholes.
Sew ric rac down the center.  With the right sides of the fabric facing you, lay the wrong side of the fold over elastic underneath so the fabric reaches the center fold line of the elastic. Sew the elastic to the fabric edge using a basting zigzag stretching very little.  When you have finished, reset your machine to a shorter, narrower zigzag.  Turn the free edge of the elastic to the front, encasing the elastic.  Stitch again, on the right side, towards the bottom edge of the elastic.  Refer to AG018 for pictures on how to do this if you do not understand.
Trim edges of the elastic.
Cut 2 pieces of fold over elastic each 8” long for the straps.  Sew as for elastic above.

Press and set aside.

Cut top tier 2” x 18” (green) – chalk mark one long edge in quarters.
Cut middle tier 2.25” x 22” (pink) - chalk mark both long edges in quarters.
Cut bottom tier 3.25 x 27” (yellow) – chalk mark one long edge in quarters and press the other long edge at ½” for the hem.

So I've pinned a few articles on Gathering with a Serger!  Who knew you could do this!  These instructions were taken from eymm.com page.  They sure worked for my White Superlock 634D serger.

STEP 1: Loosen your pressure foot!
This allows for it to gather more. To do this simply locates the pressure foot adjuster directly above the pressure foot on your machine. Loosen it… remember, lefty loosy, righty tighty, about 3-5 turns, but every machine is different.

STEP 2: Adjust differential (if you machine has it) & Stitch Length
You want to turn it all the way up to the highest number. It is important you do this FIRST because when you set the stitch length it will adjust it on most machines.  I set my Superlock to .7.

Now that your differential is set you want to adjust your stitch length to the longest possible… this is 5 on most machines. This may change the differential, that’s okay, just leave it alone.

Step 3: Adjusting Tension & Looper Threads…
Eymm said she turns both her looper’s up one number, however, I did not change mine – my Upper looper was set at 2 and the Lower looper was set at 3.   Then turn your needle thread tension up to 9 or the highest number available – I was only using one needle (right).

Step 4: SEW!
Put your fabric in the machine, put the presser foot down and serge!  DON’T pull or push the fabric, just let the serger pull it through, just keep it lined up straight.

Remember this is trial and error,  ALWAYS test it first to see how it gathers and to figure out how much I need. If you serged it and it’s too long you can simply gather it a little by hand or try running it through the machine a second time. If you gathered it TOO much you can break a few strings and carefully ungather it a bit until it fits.

If your needle thread(s) break… turn your tension down by .5 and try again. Some machines don’t like it that high! The lower your tension # the less gathers.

Gather one long edge of the middle tier (pink).  Look how nice it gathers!
Match chalk marks to the top tier (green) and sew to join.
Gather long edge (opposite edge from hem) of the bottom tier (yellow) using the serger.  Match chalk marks to the middle tier (pink) and sew to join.

Gather waist on the top tier (green) using the serger and attach to bodice.

Make sure to first put ALL your serger settings back to where they were and serge tiers and center back seams to clean finish.  Topstitch at waist towards bodice.

Sew center back seam 4” from bottom.  Hem skirt.  Pin straps to fit doll and sew.

Add a ribbon belt.  Attach velcro.

Frayed Flower
Found this idea on maizehutton.blogspot.  I started out using green gingham but I changed it to yellow instead.
Pick a fabric which frays really easy. For the larger flower, cut a strip of the fabric 1” wide by 14” long.  Fray one long edge.
Fold over one short end and secure it with a stitch.
Flip it over and start a running stitch along the bottom of the unfrayed strip of fabric.
When you've reached the end of your strip, pull the thread so the fabric bunches up.  Shape the fabric into a circle.
I cut a small scrap and glued it to the back.  Set aside.

Cut smaller fabric (turquoise) ¾” x 7.5” to 11”.  Fray one long edge and repeat as large flower.  Attach a button to the center.  Leave the needle and thread attached.

Cut a piece of 1/8” ribbon 10” long, fold in half and sew to back of small flower.   Stack the small flower (turquoise) on the large one.

Secure all the layers by stitching through each and securing at the waist.

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